My West African Adventure Blondelle E. Swinton-Tolliver My trip to West Africa was phenomenal. We spent the year before planning, preparing, and bonding as Fulbright Participants. Before leaving the USA, we studied, on the campuses of Trident Technical College and the College of Charleston, the language, politics, culture, and religion of Guinea and Sierra Leone, West Africa. However, neither time, money, nor guest speaker could have totally prepared us for what we would experience in the Mano River Region of West Africa. On May 25, 2008, thirteen excited Fulbright participants left the USA. The next day, we were up bright, and early, eager to visit the American Embassy at Conakry, Guinea. By evening, we were on our way to Freetown, Sierra Leone. We were fortunate to have had the best African guides and drivers to help us experience the region. Nevertheless, traveling in the Guinea/Sierra Leone territory at night is not recommended. Miraculously, we made it safe and sound to Freetown, a little shaken, but not broken. Sierra Leone has a population of about four million, and Freetown is the main commercial hub. Freetown has a wonderful relaxed and inviting atmosphere about it. I have never been to the Caribbean Islands, but I would imagine that there are similarities in the ambiance of Freetown and the Caribbean Islands. We checked into a nice hotel called the Barmoi where some of us had beautiful ocean views. We spent the first evening walking and mingling with the people on Lumley Beach. The friendliness and hospitality of the people was extraordinary, and the beach is incredible with its sapphire-tinted water and white sand. We visited many places in Freetown, among them, the American Embassy, Bunce Island, Fourah Bay University, Cape Town Community School, and the community market. Cape Town Community School was close to the hotel and the first school that we visited. We made a monetary donation and presented some of the school supplies that we had brought from America. It was hard to believe how much the school was lacking in resources and teaching aids, not to mention the physical structure. The number of students in each classroom was outrageous. So, when you look into the eyes of the children, you want to help. The Bunce Island visit in Sierra Leone took me back in history. It was an extremely emotional episode. Just think, shiploads of Africans, my ancestors, were taken from this point repeatedly over centuries, never to be returned to their families and communities. That’s hard to swallow. I rejoice in knowing that my ancestors were extremely intelligent, talented, and resilient people. This thought helps to soften this hard emotional reality. I asked myself, why would people cross vast oceans, risking their own lives, over and over, to unlawfully and immorally destroy families and communities? Bottom line: during a horrendous period in our history, West Africa was robbed over and over again of its greatest natural resource, people. Later on in the week, we visited a lively little town called Bo. It is the second largest city in Sierra Leone. Bo appeared to still be in recovery from the recent civil war. We stayed at the Sir Milton Hotel in Bo. It was easy to tell that it was once a very nice hotel. The physical structure of the hotel confirmed that, and Sir Milton was actually the Prime Minister in the 1960’s. All things considered, Sierra Leone, as a whole, felt good to me. In Bo, we hung out with the locals, attended various religious services, and visited Njala University and numerous grade schools. On June 3, we ended our stay in Bo, and we returned to Conakry, Guinea, upon U.S. Embassy approval, of course. The Republic of Guinea’s primary language is French, integrated with various ethnic dialects. Guinea’s population is about ten million people. Guinea is made up of regions defined by topography, with major cities in each region. There are four well-defined regions designated by their own distinct climate, flora, and fauna. This is reflected in Guinea's history, traditions, and dialects. Presently, the country is experiencing extreme economical and political strife, but the people are proud and optimistic. Conakry, the capital, is a bustling, multi-ethnic city. As Fulbright participants, we were anxious to plunge into our own individual Fulbright inquiry everywhere we went. Some of the places in Conakry, lower Guinea we visited were the University, the Museum, the US embassy, Ile of De Los, and the Grand Mosque. While in Conakry, the embassy hosted a presentation for us on the current state of affairs in Guinea and safety issues while traveling in Guinea. At the embassy, we enjoyed an art exhibit, visited the American library, and used the computers to check and send emails. We met the Prime Minister, and he took time out of his busy schedule to talk with us. Finally, we were treated, by the embassy, to a delicious lunch at a very nice hotel, The Rivera. As we traveled from region to region, we visited educational institutions and other significant sites satisfying curiosities, conducting inquiries, and providing words of inspiration to the young and old. We shared our professional passions and perspectives on education, and we made donations. After our visits to each region, we typically returned to Conakry, our base. Primarily, we stayed at one of two hotels in Conakry, either the Novotel, or the Hotel du Golfe. Dr. Mohammed N’Daou, our guide and host, made his home in Conakry available to us to exchange and store clothes and supplies and to refresh ourselves before and after each leg of our adventure. His family and friends were incredibly wonderful. From there, we took road trips to other locations in Lower Guinea, such as Kindia, Fria, Boffa, Boké, and Camsar. We explored Fouta Djallon, Middle Guinea, traveling through Dalaba, Pita, and Timbo to Labe’. In upper Guinea, we spent time in Faranenya, Kouroussa, and Kan Kan. On one road trip, we arrived in Boffa as the fishermen were bringing in the catch of day, blue crabs and fish. I was surprised to see blue crabs that looked exactly like the ones I enjoy at home. We visited the Bauxite Plant in Fria, but we were not allowed to tour it. Nevertheless, we discussed the political and economical situation surrounding the plant. At Farenya, we visited a village that is significant to African American history. The people of the village were kind and generous. I learned that this site has a direct connection to Charleston and Savannah by way of the slave trade. We visited a grave site and participated in an ancestral ceremony on the riverbank. Farenya is an amazing place to visit. According to history, Niara Bely was the daughter of an African chief. She married Stiles Lightburn, a European, who had influential relatives living in Charleston, SC, on Wadamalaw Island, and Savannah, Georgia. The couple became deeply involved in the slave trade and established a slave trading empire on the Rio Pongo. As a matter of fact, in the 1800’s, she actually fought to maintain slave trading after her husband’s death. There is African folklore about her mystical powers and what she was capable of doing, supernaturally. She eventually signed a treaty that gave the French control of part of Guinea. As we traveled across Guinea, our group presentations and individual presentations continued to stir excitement for and inquisitiveness about America and Americans. Dr. N'Daou translated the English into French for each presenter. If I had a dime for every time I exchanged address information with someone, then I could probably buy another plane ticket to West Africa. In Boké, Guinea, we toured the Museum and the water front. To me, the waterfront was similar to locations in Charleston. Below the Museum, we visited a cold, dank, dungeon that was used to hold enslaved Africans for shipping. It was disturbing to see remnants of shackles and items of captivity used to imprison people. That was a tearjerker. The elders in Boké told us stories about the family that once lived above the dungeon and their involvement in the slave trade. Currently, the floors above the dungeon are a museum. The museum is in need of help and funds to preserve the artifacts. As a group, we moved on to another site on the river and viewed ruins of a fort and a slave ship. On June 11th, we visited Dr. N’Daou’s daughter’s home in Kamsar and enjoyed a delicious lunch. Her whole family and community served us joyfully. Fatou is a master indigo dye artist, so this provided me the opportunity to learn more about indigo, my personal Fulbright project. I wanted to know more about the science part of it as well as the cultural connections to West Africa. After shopping at the market for the supplies, Fatou started to demonstrate the process. I learned that, today, most people in West Africa use synthetic dyes and fixers because it is more convenient, efficient, and available. Traditionally, they start with 100% cotton and use various materials, such as thread, raffia, and recycled plastic bags, to create the patterns on the fabric. As a rule, this process takes place outside, even during the rainy season. I also learned that when the actual plant is used, the indigo dye is made by crushing fermented leaves from the indigo plant. The women of the highlands of Guinea are famous for their indigo cloth. Culturally, the indigo cloth is a symbol of wealth, abundance, and fertility all over West Africa. On June 13, we traveled to Labé, the largest town in the Fouta Djallon. On the way, we stopped at two majestic waterfalls and a very nice crafts market. The falls are spectacular, but the roads are awful. We were lucky to find local guides in the region to assist us in safely navigating the roads. In Labé, we shopped for leather goods, indigo, and baskets. Later on, we spoke to a large, enthusiastic audience at the University. On Wednesday, we visited Kouroussa, the home of Camara Laye, a famous Guinean author. He wrote L’Enfant Noire (The Dark Child). We met his brother, who explained some symbolisms in the book as they relate to his brother’s life and childhood. The last major city we visited was Kan Kan in Upper Guinea. We spent a lot of time at the University visiting their American Reading Room. At the University, we attended an event that was a part of the graduation ceremony and interacted with some remarkable students and faculty. After a few days in Kan Kan, experiencing the local essence, we returned to Conakry. Our final sight-seeing tour was of the Iles De Los, one of a chain of islands off the coast of Conakry. This particular island once had a fort that was used during the slave trade to imprison people for transporting to America. We toured a church and the ruins of the fort before leaving the island. Sierra Leone and Guinea are equally captivating. The faces of the people seemed so familiar to me, and the cultural connections to the Low Country are prolific. I discovered that indigo has implications that are deeply rooted in West African tradition, art, and science. As a result of this trip, I am able to dispel misconceptions about Africa and my ancestry. Ultimately, my West African Adventure was absolutely unbelievable, and I will always celebrate it as a major event in my life. I credit this to the exceptional Fulbright participants and all of the people and organizations that played a significant role in making it a reality. In view of this experience, I want to know more about West Africa and to be a part of an effort to help the children of Guinea and Sierra Leone. I am very proud to be African by genetics, and, at the same time, I know how wonderful it is to be African American.